Pittsburgh
Pittsburgh City Overview
One of our favorite cities for a road trip, Pittsburgh has all the charms of a homespun community along with all the activities and amenities you’d expect in a big city. The turnaround here has been impressive to say the least. What was once a declining steel city is now a hotbed for financial and high tech companies, along with a thriving artists community. Blend in some blue collar values and you’ve got Pittsburgh in a nutshell.
More so than most, Pittsburgh is a city of unique neighborhoods. They’re not so much based on ethnicity, but you will find clusters of restaurants in certain areas trending toward a particular style of cuisine. On the south side along the Monongahela river is the Carson Street district, know for it’s many restaurants and bars. Just west of downtown is the Strip, a wholesale meat and produce area that blends in some of Pittsburgh’s hottest nightlife. Just down the way from the Strip is Little Italy, and then Shadyside, a trendy neighborhood with even more appealing restaurants and bars.
Pittsburgh’s geography can pose a challenge for drivers. It’s hilly, and streets curve frequently. The center portion of the city is shaped like a triangle, with one river on the north and another on the south. The south side’s terrain rises sharply from the river, and inclines take passengers from down below up to a bluff which affords a commanding view of the environs.
The Neighborhood – PNC Park
PNC Park and the neighboring football stadium Heinz Field are located on the north side of Pittsburgh, just across the Allegheny River from downtown. The Roberto Clemente Bridge turns pedestrian only before and after Pirates games, and it’s a great way to get to the park. Also, boat shuttles make the trip from the Carson Street area and dock right behind the right field terrace.
Surrounding the ballpark are all sorts of places to eat and drink. There is also a smattering of hotels and office buildings which give the area a year around activity level. Numerous parking lots are adajcent to both stadiums, with immediate access to the interstate system. Both stadiums are crown jewels of the Pittsburgh skyline, particularly PNC Park with it’s distinctive architecture.
The Ballpark
Without question, PNC Park offers one of the best settings in baseball. Snug up against the banks of the Allegheny River, Pittsburgh’s skyline towers over the center field backdrop, just 1/2 mile away.
The ballpark was built with many of the good points of the beloved Forbes Field in mind. The toothbrush light towers, the stacking upper deck, and close proximity to the playing field all evoke memories of Forbes.
We sat far in the right field upper deck corner for a game in 2007, and even those seats offered an acceptable view. Better still, we had a great vantage point of the river down below and the skyline across the river.
Ballpark Tours
Tours of PNC Park are offered 10 a.m., noon, and 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Occasional tours are offered on Saturdays. Cost is $7. It’s a great tour, especially the film that covers the Pirates history in Pittsburgh.
Historic Baseball Sites
Before PNC Park came into existence, both the Pirates and Steelers played at Three Rivers Stadium, which is now a parking lot for PNC and Heinz Field.
About four miles east in the Oakland neighborhood is one of the most interesting baseball historic sites in the country. In the midst of the Univesity of Pittsburgh campus are a few reminders of Forbes Field, home of the Pirates from 1909 to mid 1970.
In the Forbes Quadrangle building, home plate from the final game is sitting under plexiglass in the middle of a long hallway which is supposedly aligned with the former 3rd base line. It is said the home plate marker is about 10 feet from where it really sat, which is now a men’s restroom. Just outside the building, there’s a row of bricks which marks the path of the left field wall. Walking along the row of bricks, you’ll come across a plaque which marks the spot where Bill Mazeroski’s 1960 Game 7 World Series home run cleared the fence. Finally, across the street, a portion of the left-center field wall still stands, complete with flagpole and distance markers.
A half block away on Forbes Avenue is one of America’s greatest hot dog stands, The Original Hot Dog Shop, often dubbed “The Big O” by natives. Don’t miss this place … the hot dogs, which are more like mildly smoked sausages, are one of a kind. The Original opened in 1960, directly across the street from the Forbes Field main entrance. The ballpark was demolished in 1972.
Pirates Tickets
In general, Pirates tickets are available and easy to obtain. The exception is weekend games in the summer, particularly if it is one of the many promotional nights. Then, it’s best to secure your tickets in advance.
Public Transportation
With three rivers, tons of bridges, hills, and angled streets, Pittsburgh is not the easiest city to navigate. But navigate you must, because although there’s a light rail system in and around downtown, getting where you want to go requires a car.
The best option for public transportation is before and after Pirates games, where light rail will deposit you at any number of downtown lots. Then again, it’s a short walk across Roberto Clemente Bridge into downtown and there are plenty of lots on the north side of the river.
Our recommendation? Renting a car is the best way to go, and it will allow you to explore one of the best things about Pittsburgh … the neighborhoods.
Restaurants, Taverns, and Great Beer Bars
Penn Brewing: Since 1989, Penn Brewing has been a mainstay in Pittsburgh’s beer and brewing scene. A working microbrewery and brewpub occupy the premises of a former brewery just over the bridge from downtown on Pittsburgh’s north side. Great happy hour specials! 800 Vinial St., Pittsburgh. Phone: 412-237-9402.
Fat Heads: Popular lunch, dinner and late night spot on the Carson Street strip. You’ll really get fed in here, as portions are enormous. The food is tasty and they’ve got 42 beers on tap. 1805 E. Carson St., Pittsburgh. Phone: 412-431-7433.
Max’s Allegheny Tavern: Tucked in an old north side neighborhood just 5 minutes from PNC Park, Max’s has been dishing up German specialties and great beer on tap for decades. This is always one of our first stops in Pittsburgh. A real institution in the city. 537 Suismon St., Pittsburgh. Phone: 412-231-1899.
Smokin’ Joe’s: Carson Street on Pittsburgh’s south side is teeming with great bars, and Smokin’ Joe’s is one of the best. A fun place that’s always bustling with a fun crowd, the 60 beers on tap make it a primary stop for beer fans in the area. 2001 E. Carson St., Pittsburgh. Phone: 412-431-6757.
Hofbrauhaus Pittsburgh: Have a great time at this outpost of the Hofbrauhaus chain, with hearty plates and big mugs of fresh cold beer. 2705 S. Water St., Pittsburgh. Phone: 412-224-2328.
Church Brew Works: The most unusual setting for a brewpub we’ve seen … it’s in an old church, with the brewing equipment behind the former altar. Right across the street from the old Iron City Brewing complex, just west of the Strip District. 3525 Liberty Ave., Pittsburgh. Phone: 412-688-8282.
