Cleveland
Cleveland City Overview
What’s the old saying, don’t knock it ’til you’ve been there? It certainly applies to Cleveland.
This city along the southern shores of Lake Erie has had an uneven reputation in the past, but in our estimation a lot of the issues are a thing of the past. Cleveland is no longer a city relying on heavy manufacturing to drive its economy. There’s an innovative spirit here, determined to move forward with progress and spread a sense of community pride. With that in mind, it’s interesting to note that Cleveland is one of the Great Lakes area’s most visited cities.
Before going to Cleveland, a little research is in order. This is a city of neighborhoods, some historic, some steeped in ethnic tradition like Little Italy, but each enjoyable and welcoming. It’s in these neighborhoods that you’ll discover the soul and spirit of Cleveland and everything that makes the city great.
The city and surrounding area is fairly easy to navigate, as long as you don’t lose your patience with a few angle streets in the city’s heart. With several world class attractions, a thriving dining scene, and plenty of sporting events, Cleveland is ideal for a weekend baseball trip.
Of course, the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame is worth a pilgrammage by itself. There’s also ample water related activities along Lake Erie, including fishing charters, boat tours, or just catching a few rays on one of many beaches. But to really experience Cleveland, explore neighborhoods like Ohio City, the Warehouse District, Tremont, Shaker Square, and Little Italy. Before long, you’ll be singing Cleveland’s praises just as we have since first visiting 25 years ago.
By the way, if you’re looking for convenient and reasonably priced accommodations, we highly recommend two hotels in the adjacent suburb of Lakewood, just 10 minutes from the ballpark. You’ll find both a Days Inn and a Travelodge near the main intersection of 117th Street and Clifton Boulevard. We’ve stayed at both, and either is an ideal choice. It’s a short 10 minute drive on Rt. 2 along the lakefront to get to downtown, the Ohio City and Tremont neighborhoods, and the ballpark.
The Neighborhood – Progressive Field
Progressive Field, home of the Cleveland Indians, is just five minutes from the downtown core and directly across the river from the Ohio City neighborhood. It’s located in an entertainment district known as the Gateway District. In addition to the ballpark, Cleveland’s NBA arena is here, along with ample places to eat and drink. There are plenty of parking lots and shuttle drop off points, as several restaurants run shuttles to the games.
The Ballpark
Formerly known as Jacobs Field, Progressive Field is truly part of the urban landscape. The main entrance in left field is a gathering spot for fans, and there’s a lively atmosphere at most games. It’s a comfortable place to watch a game, as aisles are wide and seats offer ample leg room. Outfield seats are angled slightly toward home plate, and the upper deck, while steep, is stacked above the lower bowl. When the park opened in 1994, it signaled a rebirth in Cleveland’s fortunes, and the city hasn’t looked back.
Ballpark Tours
Tours of Progressive Field are offered from May to September on non game days. Cost is $7.50 and you’ll see the clubhouse, dugouts, press area, and Heritage Park in center field, where Indians greats are honored.
Historic Baseball Sites
There were two baseball stadiums in Cleveland before Progressive. One was Cleveland Municipal Stadium, a huge 80,000 seat behemoth that housed the Indians and the NFL Cleveland Browns. The new Browns football stadium now occupies the site.
Further west at the intersection of 66th and Lexington Avenue is a community park, League Park. League Park was Cleveland’s original big league ballpark, serving the Indians since their inception until 1946. After Cleveland Stadium was built in the early 30′s, League Park was used only for weekday games. The ballpark closed after the 1946 season and was mostly demolished in the early 50′s.
However, parts of League Park are preserved and it’s well worth seeing. Much of the 1st base grandstand wall is standing, as is the original ticketing building which is now used as a small community center. There’s a plaque commemorating a few of League Park’s most famous moments. Efforts are underway to rebuild League Park as an urban ballfield for area youth. Interestingly, a baseball diamond is laid out on the site exactly where it was in League Park’s heyday.
Cleveland Indians Tickets
For many years, the Indians had one of the longest sellout streaks in major league baseball. Those days are gone for the time being, and tickets to most games are readily available.
Bars, Restaurants, and Taverns
Most of Cleveland’s good beer spots are reasonably close to the ballpark, within 10 minutes or so. Cleveland’s craft beer scene has been bolstered by the presence of Great Lakes Brewing Company, one of the country’s most well known and respected microbrewery/brewpub.
The fact is, whatever neighborhood you choose to explore, it’s likely you’ll find a good local restaurant or tavern to your liking. We have our list of favorites, but it’s worth repeating that Cleveland has a lot of hidden gems, so set out and discover your very own!
Great Lakes Brewing Company: For great beer in Cleveland, it’s got to start at Great Lakes. Located just across the river from the ballpark in the Ohio City neighborhood, Great Lakes has demonstrated brewing excellence for many years.
The brewpub is a much loved institution, and the expanded brewery itself is down the street. The Holy Moses wit beer is one of our personal favorites. We enjoy visiting the wholesale West Side Market on Saturday morning and then heading down the street to Great Lakes for lunch and beer. 2516 Market Ave., Cleveland. Phone: 216-771-4404.
Winking Lizard: Winking Lizard is a small Cleveland area chain that’s been doing a nice job serving pub favorites like burgers, wings, and sandwiches at very reasonable prices. This particular location is a popular pre game stop, and the beer selection is well thought out. 811 Huron Ave. East, Cleveland. Phone: 216-589-0313.
McNulty’s Bier Markt: Actually yes, it’s spelled the way they do it, with no “e” in Markt. Open at 4 p.m. daily and noon on Saturdays, this place is quite near Great Lakes Brewing. There’s an emphasis on Belgian taps here, and the food is top notch. Try the steamed mussels or the pizza, which was voted Best in Cleveland. 1948 W. 25th St., Cleveland. Phone: 216-344-9944.
Edison’s Pub: Adjacent to the Ohio City neighborhood is Tremont, an architecturally rich section of Cleveland with an appealing array of local restaurants and bars. This neighborhood is where locals in the know go. And one of the anchors is Edison’s Pub, billing themselves as an import beer parlor. Good enough for me! Try the Buckeye Hippie IPA from local Buckeye Brewing Company. 2373 Professors St., Cleveland. Phone: 216-298-4484.
Indigo Imp Brewery: This is a relatively new entrant into Cleveland’s beer scene, and it’s a microbrewery, not a brewpub. They’re open every Friday and sell their beer in six packs (cash only). We like the Blonde Bombshell and the Jester Pale Ale. The Jester is particularly interesting as it has the clove and banana characteristics of a hefeweizen but the hoppy twang of a pale ale. Seek these beers out while in Cleveland. 3615 Superior Ave., Cleveland. Phone: 216-881-0650.
Tremont Tap House: As the name implies, the Tremont Tap House is located in the Tremont neighborhood, not far from Edison’s Pub. Enjoy the outdoor patio and the creative and approachable food. 24 tap beers. 2572 Scranton Rd., Cleveland. Phone: 216-298-4451.
The Harp: If you guessed this is an Irish pub, you’re right. But the tap beer selection goes beyond the typical Bass/Harp/Guiness. This is a fun place with a lively crowd and the food is good too. It’s on the western edge of the Ohio City neighborhood and the outdoor patio has a great view of Lake Erie. We had brunch here recently and it was delightful … tasty and inexpensive. 4408 Detroit Ave., Cleveland. Phone: 216-939-0200.
Flat Iron Cafe: This venerable old standby has been serving locals since 1910. Their Friday fish frys are legendary, especially the lake perch. It’s located in The Flats, a neighborhood along the river that used to be the epicenter for Cleveland nightlife in the 80′s. Those days are gone but the Flat Iron Cafe carries on. An old tavern like atmosphere and over 80 beers available, including some interesting locals. They offer a shuttle to all Indians home games. Check out their brand new patio too. 1114 Center St., Cleveland. Phone: 216-696-6968.
Hotz Cafe: Hotz Cafe (pronounced with a long “o”, not “hots” but “hoatz”) is the ultimate cool locals bar. It’s a throwback in the arty Tremont neighborhood just a stones throw from the ballpark. Run by the Hotz family for 90+ years, it’s a real slice of Cleveland, with cheap bottled beer specials and a friendly environment. There’s an old fashioned bowling machine inside, as well as the original long bar and regulars of all ages. Back in the 1920′s, Babe Ruth stopped in and paid for his tab with a check. The Hotz family never cashed it and still has it. 2529 W. 10th Street (at Starkweather), phone 216-771-7004 or their website at www.hotzcafe.com .
